If How many of us are lucky enough to get paid for doing something that we love? Talk to Malmaison Head chef Russell Heeley, and you’ll soon get as envious as I did. He is passionate about what he does, and that really shows in the quality of the food, service and attitude of his team as they strive to tantalise your taste buds and elevate your dining experience to new levels.

I arrived a little early for my meeting with Russell in this smart restaurant set in Oxford’s former prison. Before I knew it, I was ushered into cell 2 and settled at a table with a frothy cappuccino, two warm, freshly baked pastries and a friendly smile. Everyone I met seemed to know who I was, asked politely if I was OK and reassured me that Russell’s meeting was nearly over. The communication between them seemed almost psychic. If you’ve never been to Malmaison for lunch, you won’t know how relaxing the décor and ambiance are, but I soon felt like I was winding down in my own living room. I was reflecting on how good the communication was between the bar staff, receptionist and kitchen, when, rather ironically, Russell arrived – fresh from a communication meeting. Every morning the whole Malmaison team meet up to discuss what new challenges they face that day, ensuring that everybody knows everything that is going on, from housekeeping to building works, weather reports to new menus. “The mornings are always busy,” said Russell, looking at his watch. “In the kitchen they’ll be preparing for tonight – if they’re not done by noon, we’ll be catching up the rest of the day. With up to 180 covers a night, and 99% of all dishes prepared on the premises, preparation is everything.” This made me wonder how much partly prepared food would have to be thrown away, but Russell assured me that part of the chef’s expertise is knowing what to order and prepare. He explained that different dishes sell better in different areas, and any chef worth his salt (no pun intended) would know the local tastes.

So how does the “Oxford palette” compare? I wondered. “People in Oxford are very keen to try new things, but they are also fond of traditional favourites such as Mrs Beeton style puddings (cooked to perfection of course!)” I asked Russell what the most interesting item was on his current menu. He immediately rattled off several mouth-watering dishes which left me wishing I hadn’t eaten the pastries. ”Would you like to try something?” he asked. “OK,” I agreed, and, after a whisper and a nod to the bar staff, we resumed our conversation. Minutes later, a dish of strawberries arrived with bright green ice-cream. I looked at it suspiciously. “Strawberries lightly cooked in white balsamic vinegar with black cracked pepper and an accompaniment of rocket ice-cream,” said Russell. “What, lettuce flavoured ice-cream?” I asked, immediately regretting revealing my naïve and rather sheltered upbringing. “Try it,” urged Russell, and I sceptically pushed the strawberries around my plate with my fork, thinking, “Vinegar? Pepper? Lettuce? This could be a very short interview.” Well, I tell you no lie, it was delicious. The combination of flavours just worked incredibly well. It had no right to, but there you have it. Spurred on by my newly acquired adventurous palette, I asked him what was the most outrageous dish he had ever cooked. I will spare you the details about what Russell can do with lambs’ tongues and pigs’ ears ...